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Saturday, July 20, 2013

Tlaquepaque!

I started to realize how comfortable I am living in Mexico when I can pronounce a word like "tlaquepaque" without a second thought.  Actually, Tlaquepaque is a pueblo on the outskirts of Guadalahara.  And if you're wondering "how the hell do you pronounce that?", it's something like "tuh-lah-k-pah-k".

The first hour of each of my Spanish class is spent in conversation (in Spanish of course) and I mentioned that I felt there weren't a lot of good day trips from this area.  The other two gringos in my class as well as the instructor started giving me a long list of potential day trips.  The most popular seemed to be Tlaquepaque.  So that's where Matt and I went on Friday.....we like to get out of the house on Friday so we can stay out of our housekeeper's hair.....and besides I feel very lazy sitting around watching this little pregnant lady mop my floors.

Tlaquepaque isn't only about a 45 minute drive and required driving into Guadalajara.  Matt has gotten much better about big city driving over the last few months, in fact sometimes he drives just a little too Mexican!  Matt tried to enter our destination into the GPS but couldn't find it, so we were using driving direction we found on the internet, which was making both of us very nervous.  The internet directions gave street names to exit the highway on but seldom are the actually street names posted.  When we neared Guad we saw our first sign for Tlaquepaque and that's when Matt realized he had been misspelling the name when entering it into the GPS.  So we entered it correctly, and no problema.  NOTE:  When driving in Mexico a GPS with current Mexico maps is worth it's weight in gold.

The GPS took us to the general area, but not to the centro artisan market area that we wanted to go.  We circled around a bit, and when we had no luck finding it, we broke down and asked direction from a young man standing on a street corner (thank you Gabriel for all your help improving my Spanish!).  One of the gringo rules in Mexico is to avoid asking Mexicans for directions.  Mexicans hate to disappoint so even if they don't know the answer, they'll tell you something.  But in this case he understood my question "donde esta el marcado de artisans?" and gave me directions that I could actually understand and that took us right to where we wanted to go.

Tlaquepaque is beautiful!  The marcado area is about six blocks and closed to auto traffic.  Every little pueblo in Mexico has a plaza, always next to the church, and usually with a gazebo.  Thought this one was especially pretty.  Quite a few tourists types were there, but almost all were Mexican - very few gringos.




 Lots of whimsical artwork in the area, including this little guy and the only mariachi band in Mexico that doesn't hound you for tips.


The mercado area in Tlaquepaque is one incredible colonial building after another. 

We found this potter giving a demonstration to some kids.  He was turning out angry bird sculptures and that seemed to hold their interest.

This is where Matt and I had lunch, not sure of the name of the restaurant but a pretty location.  I had my first torta ahogadas!  I believe torta can mean either cake or sandwich, and in this case it's definitely sandwich.  Ahogadas means drowned.  There are roadside stands on every block that offer tortas ahogadas along with tacos but we had never tried them before.  What we have been missing!  Not sure if they are all alike, but the sandwich I had was served fairly plain,  just stewed, nicely seasoned pork on a hoagie bun with red onions on the side.  Then they give you a big bowl of red chili sauce along with a little cup to ladle this over your sandwich.  This makes for a pretty awesome meal....messy, but declicious and just a little spicy.  So I've got a new favorite Mexican food, just what I needed!  My only complaint about Tlaquepaque ws the price of the cerveza - $340 pesos!  That's about $3 USD!  Standard prices around Chapala for a beer range from $180-$220 pesos, so this was about US prices!


Last weekend Matt and I tried a new restaurant, Tabarkas.  Matt's golfing buddy Vern and his wife Kathleen went with us.  I've always been a huge fan of La Bodegas in Kansas City and this was the Lake Chapala version!  They have a promotion for unlimited tapas and wine for $240 pesos, or $20 USD.  They brought round after round of tapas to our table, all very nice!  And the wine flowed - well at least for Kathleen and me!  Vern and Matt abstained and they had the non-drinkers version of the tapas meals for only $160.  Good to have a DD!

Tabarcas - the Chapala version of La Bodesga
 Such nice people here!  Vern and Kathleen are great and always so helpful.  Vern has been giving Matt a ride home from golf on Tuesdays and Wednesdays so I can make my yoga class.  They've been taking golf lessons on Tuesday morning and Vern hauls Matt to those as well so I can go to the organic market.  I'm sure he's thinking "I wish they'd buy a second car!".  The first time we were invited to their beautiful house for dinner, Vern specifically included Hermann in the invite.  They have a labradoodle, Gracie, who's about Herm's age so we thought they'd get along great.  Oh, well, not the case.  Sweet Gracie went blind from a retinal disease and she's still adjusting.   Didn't seem to appreciate this invader on her turf at all.  And Herm, for his part, behaved no better.  Herm is very house broken and NEVER has accidents; or at least not until we visited Vern and Kathleen.  Within 15 minutes he had left a nice little surprise in their living room.  Later we walked into San Juan Casalo, the village where Vern and Kathleen live.  When we came home there was a pee trail from the living room, into the kitchen, to the door.  Needless to say, Herm has no more social engagements on his calendar.  I guess he know's not to mess his own house, but everyone else's is fair game.

And want to be sure and mention our other group of new friends.  We met Joe and Sharon one night when we went out to dinner.  We had Herm with us and dogs always seem to be a good ice breaker.  Really enjoyed visiting with them and they invited us to join their friends for dinner at Molcajete's in Chapala.  They usually have dinner every other Saturday night and there's usually 10-12 people there.  Always a very fun group.
Dinner at Molcajetes










Friday, July 12, 2013

Hiking, Yoga, :Little Luxuries and New Friends

Since we arrived, we've been wanting to do some hiking in the surrounding mountains.  But we've been waiting for the rainy season for the temps to cool down a bit.  Well, the rains are here so no more excuses!

Matt's friend Vern had told him about a trail that leads to a waterfall.  I thought Matt had said "Vern says it's an easy trail", so that sounded what I was looking for on our first hike.  So one day last week we set off.

At the trail head, the trail was so beautiful and with just a slight incline - perfect!
Trail Head
One of the first sites we saw was this huge tree growing above the trail with it's roots wrapped around a boulder.

But before long, the trail was getting steeper and steeper, and we eventually found ourselves climbing over huge boulders.  Matt did really well; his two day a week golf game walking a very hilly course has done wonders for his cardio.  Me....not so much.  I was panting like crazy and needed to take frequent breaks.  I said to Matt, "I though Vern said this was an easy trail?"  Matt, said no...he never said it was easy, just that it was a good trail.  I should listen to Mast more carefully!

The trail gets more difficult!

I like this picture, pensive Matt

We eventually came to yet one more jagged hill of boulders we needed to climb.  There was a group with a couple of 12 or 13 years old boys that had passed us on the trail.  We could hear them ahead of us  laughing and having so much fun scaling these boulders.  But Matt and I looked at each other, and both knew this was far enough for two people in their mid-fifties!  And then it started to rain; not heavy but a bit more than a sprinkle.  So that was our sign from the heavens that we should turn back, plus we could always use the rain as an excuse for not going further.

This is it for us!  High enough

We've got another hike in mind, that we'll try this week.  Matt thinks it will be a bit easier.  I want to borrow one of my ranch dogs to take with us...to help pull me up the mountain.  

And I found a great yoga class!  There seems to be very little publicity about yoga classes here.  The one class I had found, I wasn't happy with.  But one of our new friends recommended this instructor in San Antonio, the neighboring village, and gave me her email address.  I started this week, and it's perfect!  She's an incredible instructor and teaches at a perfect level for me.  And what a bargain, $60 pesos a class, which at the current exchange rate is less than $5 usd.  

I love how affordable most things are here so it's easy to treat ourselves to little luxuries.  For one thing, I rarely cook.  At the Tuesday organic market, there are plenty of vendors selling incredible produce, yogurt and fresh cheeses.  But there are also quite a few vendors selling pre-made foods.   We stock up so we have a couple of meals.  Matt is addicted to the chicken pot pies there, not the healthiest thing to eat, but it makes him happy.  The pot pie guy also sells some really good quiches.  Then there is another vendor who sells mini gourmet pizzas, one who sells Asian food like pot stickers and great salads, artisan breads, and my fave - the tamale lady.  Her tamales are incredible and made without lard, so must be healthy, right?  I also always pick up a bag of beautiful salad greens (pre-washed and disinfected) for $20 pesos (or $1.75 USD) and sometmes a bag of kale.  So plenty of stuff in my fridge to make some very tasty and health salads.  BTW, my new favorite salad dressing.  I've learned to make fresh salsa verde and found that if you mix about two parts fresh salsa verde with one part ranch dressing, you have a very yummy dressing, and with a lot less fat that is normally in ranch dressing.

And then there are the restaurants,  So many incredible restaurants and most within walking distance. We founds a great Thai place about six blocks from us.  Luckily they also serve Japanese food, so Matt (who is not a fan of Thai food) can get some tempura and a California roll and be perfectly happy while I indulge in my passion for Thai.  And many of the restaurants are running specials this summer, just to keep the doors open while the snow birds are away.  Last night we tried Roberto's, which is one of the best restaurants around here.  On Thursday and Friday nights they have a BOGO special on their entrees.  This was too good to be true!  They had many very tempting options on their menu, which changes daily.  But Matt decided on brisket and I had the mahi mahi.  Both of us were very happy!  My maji maji was topped with spinach and a parmesan sauce and then broiled - it was perfect.  I had wine, Matt had ice tea and our bill was less than $250 peso, under $20 USD.  

My pedis are running about $10 USD with tip and a nice massage is about $20 USD.   And the spa is a nice walk from our home, so I get a little exercise as well.

Sometimes I feel that when I go on and on about how affordable it is to live here, it might give the impression that is the only reason to be here, but that is so wrong.  This area is full of charm and beauty.  The people in our village (both Mexicans and ex-pats) are for the most part very friendly.  The convenience of this area is amazing!  If I need something I can normally pick it up when Herm and I are out for our walks.  Fresh fruit, bread, milk, coffee, laundry, alterations.  There are two movie theaters in our area, one we need to drive to but there is also one three blocks from our home.  How fun to walk to the movies!  And the weather is so comfortable.   Safety doesn't seem to be a big problems.  I've yet to met anyone who has been harmed here or experienced a burglary.  One couple had a bad experience while driving from the border - they felt that another car was attempting to pull them over but they kept their heads, turned in the other direction and all was well.  We are beginning to realize why so many Americans and Canadians have flocked to this area.  It's a great place to live with all the comforts of home, plus the luxuries (house keeper, golf, movies, dinners out, spa treatments) that many couldn't afford on a retirement income.

We've started to build a little network of friends.  It's funny, but we really only know a handful of people (maybe 30), but we seem to run into someone we know where ever we go.  We've met most of our new friends while out for dinner - another reason not to cook!   We'll starting talking to someone at another table, exchange contact info, and then make arrangements to meet for another dinner out.  Then they'll invite some more friends, and the chain grows.  It's a very social area, all of us retirees have plenty of time on our hands so nice to make new friends.  

And finally, a picture of one of my favorite Ranch dogs.  I love Nellie (I call her Miss Nellie Rose).  She is such a beauty, so mellow and loves attention.  She also a great hand shaker.  If she feels you are paying too much attention to another dog in her pen, she'll give you one of her paws, and who could resist?  I so wish she'd find a good home.